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After more upsets than a first-time traveller to India, Yemen is developing a calm and collected air. Although the country is rapidly modernizing, plenty of old-style Arabia - from spicy souqs to presumptuous palaces - still exist. The country is covered in ancient skyscrapers - eight-story buildings made from stone and mud - where people live on top of their animals and the views are spectacular. See mind-blowing mosques, sultans' palaces and villages perched on top of remote mountains.